Monday, November 19, 2012

Paris (Part 2)

Sorry I'm lagging guys! But here is th rest of my journal entries from Paris :) 

"Stella and I did SO MUCH walking. We walked all the way to the Arc di Triomphe, the whole street lined with trees, the start of Christmas decorations, stores, and cute street lamps. She pointed out a Abercrombie and Fitch that had just opened and had a HUGE/ridiculous line (really Paris, really?) 









When we got to the Arc di Triomphe, it looked like there was a funeral procession going on, and the streets were closed leading up to, and around, the monument. Stella and I joined in momentarily, but an older woman with a red hat was heading up the rear and starting hitting strangers with a rolled up newspaper, we didn't stand a chance of staying in the procession. So we went off to the side and watched as soldiers led the way, and people following carried flowers. 





There were bagpipes playing. 

We then took the underground path to get to the Arc and decided to pay to go up to the top. The spiral staircase all the way up made us so dizzy, but the view of Paris at the top of the Arc - at night - was absolutely stunning. Especially with the 10 streets that sprout from the Arc. It was SO freezing outside (it rained on and off all day) and right when we were about to leave, Stella remembered that the Eiffel Tower would start to glitter and light up in a few minutes. (It does this every hour on the hour). 



So we waited, and it was well worth the wait :) She pointed out all of the monuments we'd be going to, where Napolean and his nephew are burried, and how these duomos form a triangle with the Arc, and what the Arc symbolizes - all amazing. 

After we left for dinner at an amazing French Bistro, I have to get the name of this place from her, where I had bread, great wine, duck, salad, and fried sliced potatoes. To die for! In between everything we always wandered for a bit and Stella always showed me different neighborhoods. Like I said, we did SO MUCH WALKING.





We eventually took the metro and headed off to the jazz bar. At this point, I was so exhausted, but I had to go. A father, son, and a random cello playing large bald man, get together every Monday night and play at this bar. 





They were so great. 

The son looks so French with tight blonde ringlet curls. He sang that night and Stella said it was the first time she had heard him sing. The dad is quiet. Unlike the son, he doesn't really try to entertain the crowd. He just focuses on his guitar. 




The balding fat guy gets into playing the cello and squints his eyes and growls everytime he gets a good solo going. 

The three make up quite the characters. The bar is old and dimly lit. I wouldn't say it's musty, it's too hip and cool for that. There's old propaganda, old advertisements, and different art on the walls. There's huge empty alcohol bottles displayed on a shelf over the bar, with porcelain cows scattered in between. 

People can sit at the bar, stand, or eagerly await for a seat at once of the tables that surrounds where the band is playing. Some people from Stella's program were there and we were able to swap seats with them. 

The streets in this area were winding and cobbled. There was a famous building from the movie Midnight in Paris, near the bar, but once again, I can't remember which building it was. 

That night, we passed out and were completely exhausted. I was also extremely nervous that the next day was Election Day. 



On Tuesday, I ate a cookie butter (tastes like gingerbread= and jelly sandwich. So good. The cookie butter is from Trader Joes and I've got to get me some of that when I get home. The sequence of events for Tuesday are a little more blurry. I didn't see too many sights, but I still walked a ton. We started the morning off with going to the Eiffel Tower. 





Turning the corner (making a left= when I got off the metro/walked down the street, and saw the Eiffer Tower up close for the first time was unbelievable. The sun was blaring off the white stone buildings, making a powerful glare. 

I remember feeling like my life was a little bit more complete when I had finally seen it up close. 

Stella and I walked down the steps, passed the fountain, passed a carousel, crossed some streets, looked at the river, and then finally, I was completely underneath the Eiffel Tower. 

We decided that if I went up to the top it would be too difficult to see everything, because it was so bright. So we bought a walking pass to walk up to the second floor. All 669 steps. Paris has definitely taught me two thingsç In terms of walking up stairs, I'm out of shape and two, I need to walk more, because Paris gave my legs and butt a WORKOUT. 






The whole way up we had to take off layers because it was getting way too hot. We took pictures up there for a little bit, and then continued to walk around the city for a bit. We passed by and walked through so many buildings. I can't even recall all of their names. 








Eventually we took the metro to the Jewish neighborhood where I had the best falafel of my entire life. I highly doubt anywhere else would be THIS GOOD. We took it to go and ate it at a park that was a few twists and turns away. 

The park was small, with a tiny playground, a permanent ping pong table, and benches that lined the edge of the park. To our left there was a group of high schoolers hanging out. Best dressed high schools I've ever seen, and they weren't even trying. They had their boots, jackets, scarves, high-heeled boots, and of course cigarettes, that topped off such an effortless chic style. They looked so cool, it was kind of unreal. 




We then walked back to Stella's place, stopping in a really cute clothing store along the way where nothing was organized in a particular way/fashion. Stell had class from 3-6, and I was going to go walking on this elevated pathway that I can see outside her window, but after looing at the pictures she and I had taken thus far, I passed out for the whole 3 hours. 

Earlier, Stella and I had contemplated going out to a bar for the election, but then realized we were way too tired, and that we could just stay in for the night. We went grocery shopping and I cooked her my favorite type of pasta with mozzarella, tomatoes, arugola, and pepper. She didn't have olive oil, so I did a butter garlic sauce. I also put a little bit of wine in with the pasta while it was cooking. We watched Modern Family, while we drank wine from Bordeaux that Kelly had given to Stella. It was so good. 

We both ended up being really tipsy and just laughing and talking. Stella fell asleep really fast, so I just chilled on the computer for a bit, then knocked out. 

On Wednesday I woke up blissfully and then panicked, asking Stella who are president was. She said, "Obama," and I was so relieved. I got ready and prepped some sandwiches for the day. They had pesto, brie, salami, tomatoes, and a little bit of salad, all on half of a baguette for each of us. Delicious. 

I started the day with Stella's class at Sacre Cour. Stella and I took the metro to the area, started climbing hills and eating our baguette sandwiches. (Before climbing up the hill we stopped at the wall of "I love you's:" beautiful. Then we started to climb huge staircases. It was so much colder that day. 








We ate the rest of our sandwiches on the steps in front of Sacre Cour. We were both super tired. Her professor was super welcoming and likes to be called by her first name, Christina. She assigned them to study the mosaic by drawing a rough sketch of it. 









It was so pretty with the blue background, all of the colors, and the gold detailing. Apparently, the head of Jesus is 2 feet tall. Or 2 yards. Ya, 2 yards. After she showed us a statue in a nearby park of a guy who was killed because he didn't take off his hat when a religious figure was passing by. It used to be in front of Sacre Cour, but to the religious community, it was really insulting, so they moved it down the path and into a park. She also showed us this green water fountain that was outside of the park. These fountains were built because there was a shortage of water accessibility throughout the city. There used to be hot water fountains, but it caused gas fires so they were eliminated. The cold ones (the originals from the 1800's) used to have cups that would hang from a chain/loop on the fountain, where people could drink from. This was before bacteria was discovered. The cups and chains are gone, but you can still recognize the old ones/originals because they loops that held the chains still remain. 






Stella and I saw on of those fountains on Wednesday night. After the park, we went to a small church to discuss the mosaic. It's one of the oldest churches in France, and it's where the idea of the Jesuits first began. Inside the church there was a tiny wooden statue of St. Vincent. It was on the left side of the Church. For a ltitle bit of time, we all whispered and discussed what the mosaic meant, and then she wanted to show us one last thing outside that showed a clash between tradition/religion, and science/technology. In the small Piazza, where all of the painters are, there is a small plaque above the street sign, that faces Sacre Cour, that states that first automobile was able to go up that particular hill for the first itme, without rolling back. 

It's interesting to see how many historical clashes there are between science and relgion in Paris. Chrsitina was talking about how the Eiffel Tower is the epitome of this because there's nothing religious about it. It's only a large structure, made of steel and built by man. 

After Christina showed us the plaque, the class was dismsised. Stella walked me down the hill for a ltitle bit to show me where the last winery on that particular hill is, and it was fenced off and closed, but it has a pretty little garden. I could see through the chain-linked fence. We then walked back and headed toward the metro. We were getting so tiredthough, and it seemed even colder on the hill. We were in need of some serious pick me ups, aka food or coffee. We took the metro to City Hall (Hotel de Ville), where I also was able to seeing the MoMA building (it looks so weird with the rest of Paris' architecture). 







We tried to go to pastry shop that Stell said is recommended by top chegs, but it was closed, so we ended up getting crepes. Her cinnamon and sugar, me butter and sugar. It tasted so good, gave us the sugar we needed, and kept our hands warm. 





We ate our crepes sitting down on this short little pillar in front of Notre Dame, our butts barely fitting on the pillar. I watched gypsies successfully con ignorant American tourists, and people taking varying types of posed pictures out front. While we ate, Stella pointed out that the arched above the three doors aren't symmetrical. The one on the left has a triangular arch above it. The same arch is also the one that has a sculpture of Saint Denis, the headless saint. After eating, we went inside the Church and it has become sucha  tourist spot, rather than a place of worship. 

There are TV screens and coin machines, screaming children, and info posters everywhere. The church is approaching it's 850th anniversary: INSANE! It's beautiful inside with the tall stone walls and stained glass, but it feels so cold. You don't feel enveloped by any essence when you walk in. BUT it still is beautiful. 

Stella and I talked about the differences between Chrsitian and Catholic churches, while we wandered, took photos of lit tea candles, and continued to scoff at the TV's in the church. When I first got into the church I didn't realize that people can take pictures, just without flash. I kind of felt like a dork when Stella looked at me weird when I was trying to sneak photos. 




After the church, we walked around. I saw the bookstore Shakespeare and Company, as we walked along the river that was surrounded by beautiful fall trees and stands that sold old books, postcards, photographs, etc. I stopped at one to buy postcards. 






We then went to the bridge that has the locks on it with lovers' names. I had forgot about the bridge and wished I had brought a lock. We couldn't find Stella's at first, and we both really had to pee, so we went to the Lourve first. It was amazing. I wish I could have gone into the museum, but I was just so happy to see it -- and use the bathroom. It looked so cool as the lights were turning on as day turned to night. On the way back to the bridge we looked at an old photo Stella had of her lock to see what the neighboring locks were, and on the way back, she found it! 







I took a picture of her with the lock at the spot, so she doesn't lose it again. After that, we walked through neighborhoods, got lost, and also walked as much as we could before we stuffed our faces at Gladines. 

We found a Christmas shop, crazy art displays in windows, cute little streets with leaning buildings, a warm coffee shop with the thick smell of coffee beans, old leather shops, bookstores, and the church "Saint Sulpice." We thought the church was closed as we admire dthe fountain out front and dsicussed how little it looked like a catholic church, but then it sounded like there was noise inside, despite the 2 men who were right in front of the door, shouting. And sure enough, I was right and it was open. 





Now this church felt like a place of worship, and at the very back of the church it seemed like a small mass of less than 10 people was going on. There was a part of the church that was illuminated by a blue light, so mystical. The church has that dusty holy water smell that reminds me so much of the San Juan Bautista mission. 

While walking around we talked about so many things; how we love to wander, what Bologna is like, and then Stella asked me how big Bologna exactly is, and just as I was saying it was about the same size as Berkeley, she looked up and saw that there was a "Berkeley Books in Paris" bookstore. It was closed, and the store was a cute shade of baby blue. We took pictures with it of course. While I was taking a picture of Stella the storeowner pulle dup the blind and almost seemed annoyed with us. Oh well, we're home sick buddy. 

In this same area, we saw the coffee shop, a juice shop like Jamba Juice, and also a SF bookstore. Not only was this neighborhood my favorite because it had a mix of cute stores, restaurants, and places to shop, but also because it reminded me so much of home, with all of the bookstores. 

Eventually we came to the conclusion that we had definitely walked enough -- we were both pretty drained. We go tot Gladines before it was super busy. We ordered rilettes for an appetizer, which has the texture of tuna, but it's meat with innards, fat, etc. and you spread it on bread and eat it with mini sweet pickles or small pepperoncinis. For dinner we had beers and this AMAZING huge salad. It had prosciutto, formaggio, lettuce that seemed like romaine, served with a dressing that was like honey mustard, but so much better, and served on top was a sunny side egg on top, all served with more of that amazing bread. 





One of the greatest meals ever, and the price was completely fair. We sat "outside" in their boxed/windowed off red window paneled outdoor area. We were pushed up against the window and had to squeeze past tables to get to this back one. Many people were rolling their cigarettes and smoking. We ate at a tiny little roung table with chairs that have plastic ropes stretched from side to side. The ones that leave the lines marks on you if you sit for awhile, especially with shorts. 

It was such a good meal, and we ate and talked for over 3 hours - hey, we had a filling appetizer, big salads, AND BEERS, but we champed that. 

After dinner is when we saw the drinking fountain (AN ORIGINAL!). That night we definitely fell asleep quickly."

The next day, while Stella was at class I got ready for the airport, she then walked me to metro and we parted ways. BUT we were so excited because the next time we'll be seeing each other is in a few days when we go to MOROCCO, AFRICA!!!!!!!! 





It felt weird at first to be back in Bologna - that transition from a huge metropolitan city, to a smaller Medeival city. Later that week I received two packages - one from my parents, and one from my sister. I opened them on my half-way point day in Bologna. 

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